by Erika Stalder | Thu., Mar. 5, 2015 10:57 AM
When it comes to customized self-care, compensating for different lash types often gets left out of the equation.
Let us explain: Some lashes grow long and straight, angled downward. Others are long but sparse. Some are so fine, they tend to clump together—even without mascara. So to get the scoop on creating long, defined, fluttery lashes on par with Katy Perry's (without having to bust out the falsies and glue), we talked to E! Style Collective member and celebrity makeup artist Ashley Rebecca (who creates looks for Jemima Kirke, Tory Burch and Sarah Wynter). Here, she gives us tricks to max out lashes, no matter how they grow.
Lash type: Straight lashes that point downward
The fix: Serious curl
Even after a crimp or two with an eyelash curler, straight lashes typically revert back to their original form. What does it take to truly change the course of stubbornly straight lashes? In short, a little muscle (and a few extra seconds with that lash curler).
"Start by pressing the curler at the lashline and holding for three seconds. Repeat, moving your way up the lash by curling each uncurled section for the same increment of time. Finally, when at the tips, hold the curler for five seconds to really extend the shape," Ashley said.
After curling, apply eyelash primer and a curling mascara to volumize and magnify even further.
Lash type: Short and stubby
The fix: Powder power
Anyone who has attempted to curl shorter lashes knows the pain of the pinch—that yeouch-y moment when the curler grabs the skin instead of the lashes. Yikes. Skip the torture session, our expert advises, as it can make lashes appear even shorter than they are. Instead, use a powder-coating technique for a lash-tacular look on par with Emma Watson's. Start by applying a light, even coat of mascara to the lashes. (Use a mascara equipped with a comb-style wand for definitive application.) Next, reach for something that's typically reserved for the face: loose powder. (Any loose powder will work—from baby powder to translucent powder.)
"Using a cotton swab or eyeshadow brush, apply a thin coat of loose powder to the lashes, being sure to distribute powder evenly," she instructed. "This builds the illusion of thickness and length." Follow with a second coat of mascara and allow the look to set.
Lash type: Sparse
The fix: Wiggle it
For lashes that seem to sprout up here and there rather than grow in a plentiful row, mascara can work wonders to fill in the gaps and create the illusion of a fuller flutter, like Drew Barrymore is known to rock. First, Ashley suggests using an eyelash curler to curve your lashes from base to tips.
Next, apply a coat of primer, which not only thickens the lashes, but "enriches them with vitamins, which can strengthen each lash in the long run," Ashley pointed out.
Finally, apply a mascara equipped with a textured, rubber brush, which provides mess-free, precise application. Fill in any gaps along the lashline by wiggling the mascara wand along the base, continuing upward to the tips.
"The wiggling effect creates a thick base and enhances the lashline—and gives the appearance a more thickly-lined eye, too," she said.
Lash type: Naturally clumpy
The fix: Brush up
Codependent lashes—the kind that cling together, even before mascara enters the picture—may seem like a curse, but our pro points out a hidden upshot: the ability to rock virtually any formulation of mascara available. Because when it comes to touchy lashes, technique trumps mascara type, Ashley said. To define each individual lash, like Diane Kruger, start by curling the lashes. Next, our makeup artist suggests using a spooly brush or the clean brush from a retired mascara wand to brush your lashes, plying them apart as you go. After applying primer and mascara, brush the lashes again to ensure each lash remains separated.
No matter what your lashes' natural stance, use these targeted techniques to lift, separate and amplify for a lash look so lush, no one will believe they're real.