How to Master the Smoky Under-Eye Without Looking Like a Raccoon

Tips on how to avoid the aged, sunken eye look

By Diana Nguyen Aug 11, 2015 1:12 AMTags
Jennifer Lopez, ESC, Smoky EyeJim Spellman/WireImage

What goes up must come down!

The smoky under-eye has been just as apparent on the red carpet as its lidded counterpart, with fans among celebs like Cara Delevingne, Jennifer Lopez and Kerry Washington.

For the rest of us without a glam squad, however, this dramatic look can quickly go south.

"It can be a striking look, creating mystery and depth," said celebrity makeup artist Tina Turnbow. But when not done properly, "it can draw your eyes down, making them feel like sad eyes."

Believe it or not, the trick to attaining the perfect smoky under-eye entails simply identifying your eye shape and enhancing it. Ask yourself: Do you have wide- or close-set eyes?

"If your eyes are close together, I don't suggest putting a lot of color near the inner rim," suggested Tina. "Instead, go three-quarters of the way in so that you expand the eye shape. If you have wide-set eyes, do the opposite; bring the color in."

Jon Kopaloff/FilmMagic

Typically, the makeup maven, whose signature smoky eyes can be seen on the likes of Keri Russell and Laura Prepon, starts by lining the lower lash with a chubby eye pencil from the inner rim and extending it out. Using a shading brush, she blends the liner into the lashes. She then uses a shadow and diffuses it out. (Pro tip: Never underestimate the power of your pinky tip to blend!)

To avoid that tired, sunken eye look, the makeup artist also recommended applying eye brightener, like Boscia All-In-One B.B. Eye Brightener SPF 20, under the eye and to highlight the cheekbone. For all-night wear, set with a brightening powder, like Laura Mercier Secret Brightening Powder or Nars Light Reflecting Loose Setting Powder.

"Bring some definition to the upper lid with smudge of liner and apply mascara to give it a little bit of lift," noted Tina.

You're going for under-eye smoke—not bottom-heavy char.